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Denmark

Anarchy & Theme Parks

In which unusual locations sprout from the waterways of Copenhagen.

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The life of Copenhagen seems to bleed outwards from the aquatic arteries of the canal that winds its way through the centre of town, dividing it. The most interesting parts have flourished along the waterfront, with the strikingly colourful facades of Nyhavn, a vibrant street food market on the docks, and the infamous self-governing neighbourhood of Freetown Christiania.

Two thirds of the anarchic island is a quiet collection of quirky houses (including one made almost entirely from recycled windows) and an arts studio. The other section differs substantially and is dedicated predominantly to the selling of marijuana by intimidatingly masked figures in huts, inexplicably wreathed in camouflage.

On the one hand it's a fascinating microcosm with it's own rules and code of conduct—with signs repeatedly reminding you that taking photos is forbidden—and on the other it is a reminder that what begins as an attempt at alternative societal experiment often falls back to the consumer driven structures it tried to free itself from.

You can pay a visit to another location that shouldn't really exist in the middle of a city, one of the oldest theme parks in the world, Tivoli Gardens, opened in 1843. Or if you're after something calmer and less flashy, the gardens and parks of Copenhagen are peaceful havens to stroll through and contemplate, like swatches of nature woven into the surrounding metropolitan tapestry. The highlight of which is the large, impeccably kept Assistens Cemetery, the posthumous home of figures such as Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard.

While these particular locations are noteworthy, the true beauty of Copenhagen is found in every street, alley and square. Exploring aimlessly through the winding avenues there are wonderful details, architecture and spaces around every corner. Every road ventured down—for no reason other than curiosity—might lead to an idilic square at the foot of a quietly magnificent church or a row of quaint houses lining a narrow alley.

Copenhagen is, above all, a city to wander in.